By Dame Jen Greenhalgh
Here in the UK Christmas day lunch is a traditional time of family gathering, celebrating love, family and friends and it’s usually the time we put on our showstopper meal of the year. Family recipes are pulled from drawers and memories everywhere, the best china is dusted off and everyone has their special dish. Gran’s potatoes, Mum’s gravy and Dad’s carving skills are put to the test and everyone is dozing in a food coma a couple of hours later.
In the US our American sisters and friends centre their feasting calendars and family time around Thanksgiving and it’s personally my more favoured holiday too. Celebrated on the third Thursday of November, to me it’s memories of my first ever buttermilk biscuits, learning the difference between ‘dressing’ and ‘stuffing’, and the childhood delight of finding out that marshmallows were acceptable on my dinner plate atop sweet potatoes alongside the savory delight of turkey and green beans. My paternal Grandfather was the youngest of a large family and the only child to stay in the UK. The rest of his 6 siblings all moved to the American east coast after the first world war for work in textile mills around the New England town of Baltic in Connecticut and it’s given me an extended family and friend group that I hold dear to my heart and so many valued Thanksgiving memories.
I’m not alone in my love of Thanksgiving. Dame Sue Carter, a co-founder of LDE London, spent years living and working in Texas, embracing the holiday with its regional flair. Thanksgiving is a holiday that unites people with its focus on family, friends, and, of course, food.
Thanksgiving Through Sue’s Eyes
Sue fondly remembers her Texan Thanksgiving celebrations, where local pecans reigned supreme. “It’s p-caawn, not peck-an,” she laughs, recalling her mother’s mispronunciation. Whether in a decadent pecan pie or mixed into cornbread dressing, the nut was a staple at her table. Though not a fan of turkey, Sue would often roast a capon instead, pairing it with a fine Californian Pinot Noir. Sounds really good to me and sure beats Bernard Matthews!
Thanksgiving, for Sue, isn’t just about food—it’s about the communal joy of gathering. “Even though it’s become commercialized, it’s still completely about family and friends. And maybe a football game!” (I agree, go Colts!)
Sue notes the regional differences that make Thanksgiving unique: oyster dressing in the Northeast, cornbread in the Southwest, and a preference for pecan pie over pumpkin in the Midwest. Everyone has their own dishes and spins on what they love on their family table. As she puts it, “Not much gets in the way of the main attraction, but it’s a holiday that celebrates the diversity of American cuisine.”
Jacqui’s Thanksgiving Table
For Jacqui, our LDE London President, Thanksgiving is a balancing act of tradition and practicality. Her table features both pecan and pumpkin pies, the latter made with her trusty sweet pastry recipe that has been adapted and cherished for over 20 years. When you’re making over a dozen dishes then “Tinned pumpkin puree is a lifesaver,” she says, though when it’s unavailable, she makes her own from scratch, as it can be hard to find in the UK. I totally agree, canned is the only way to go. No one needs to be pushing pumpkin through a sieve with family and guest’s arrivals imminent. That’s just a recipe for a stressful day!
When putting together the pumpkin pies Jacqui says “I up the spices depending on how fresh and strong they are,” thereby ensuring the flavors remain vibrant.
Starters rarely make an appearance at Jacqui’s gatherings. Instead, she opts for a few canapés with drinks, saving room for the vast array of meats and sides that define the holiday feast.
Find recipes for Jacqui’s pie and more Thanksgiving dishes shared by our two ‘dual’ US and UK members, Kim Hanks and Francine Kowalski on the Recipe Page.