Orchard Tomatoes…with cider

Dame Claire Daniels, our Devon based orchardist and cider maker, shares one of her favourite recipes using Cider from her orchard, Rull Orchard.

A few of you lovely folks have asked me recently for recipes that use cider. Which is how I came to fall down the rabbit hole of recipe remembrance. Not one for writing things down I tend to cook by feel and intuition; a dob of this, a splosh of that a secret spoonful. Wonderful in the moment but perplexing at the time of intended recreation.

Inside the orchard we have an allotment area, affectionately known as the compound in a nod to the secure fencing to see off the resident rabbits (so far successful). In the compound there stands a lone poly tunnel, its skin a victim of the prevailing winds and blinding summer sun. Undeterred by tears and grime I plant my seedlings out each year with a great hope for bountiful crops and self sufficiency. This year I stuck true to habit and over sowed seeds, failed to thin out and nurtured the weediest of weaklings. Thus finding myself in my annual state of overwhelm at glut after glut of delightful produce.

And so it was one evening, that I found myself stripping my vine ripened cherry tomatoes to make a rich but simple pasta sauce. While I might usually reach for a stock or a glug of red wine, we had a half bottle of cider yearning to be used. A single variety Harry Masters Jersey, bottled and corked pet nat, with a bright acidity and a tingle of residual sweetness. After some personal hydration, it bolstered the tomato sauce beautifully, rick and silky smooth, it made a perfect dinner after a long day harvesting.

Tomato and Cider Sauce

Tomatoes – any but make sure they’re super ripe. Heat on a medium hob until the skins start to melt away

Margoram – add a sprinkle to the pan as it heats (I used dried)

Rosemary – fresh, add a couple of sprigs to the pan as it warms

Extra virgin olive oil – just to stop it sticking at this point

Garlic – 1 or two cloves through the micro-plane as your tomatoes start to soften

Anchovy fillets – optional but delicious! I used half a tin because that’s all I had left, gluttony would have seen me use more. I added as the tomatoes began to soften and release their juices

Smoked sea salt – to taste -you don’t need much if you’re using anchovies

Parmesan – again through the micro-plane – I only added 25g or so to the sauce at this stage

Honey – 1tsp melted into the tomato juices

Cracked Black pepper – to taste (I love pepper so lots went in!)

Cider – I’d choose something full bodied with good tannins but also a little sweetness.

Ndjua – we had a tbsp left from our friends at Heritage Cure; melted into the sauce as it reduces down

Once all of the ingredients above are in the pan I turn to a low heat and let it simmer away gently, adding an extra slosh of cider if it starts to get too thick.

Once your pasta of choice is cooked as you like I then decant the pasta into the pan with the tomato sauce to make sure it’s well coated. Slosh in some of the pasta water and allow to reduce a little further for a minute or two, stirring to make sure all your pasta is well coated.

With an aubergine (also from the poly tunnel) crying to be used, I served the pasta topped with parmesan aubergines, fresh basil, chopped nuts and a drizzle of lemon oil.

Serve with the cider you managed not to drink as you were cooking!