Edible Cork 2025

There’s no better way to understand a country than through its food. The London Dames have mastered the art of culinary discovery. They led a group of epicurean travelers deep into Ireland’s gastronomic soul with Cork as the centerpiece. Dubbed Edible Cork, this immersive itinerary proved to be a feast for all senses. 

Our guide for the week was Cathy Sloman—Lady C to her friends—a member of LDEI’s London Chapter. Her charm and insider knowledge set the tone for what became an extraordinary exploration. With the sun shining (a small miracle in Ireland), we enjoyed the stunning landscapes, remarkable food, and the warmth and enthusiasm of the Irish people. Pride in their culinary heritage runs deep.  

The Culinary Heart of Cork  

Often referred to as Ireland’s food capital, Cork brims with artisanal flavors and proud culinary traditions. Our first full day began with a cultural deep dive led by noted food historian Regina Sexton. She traced the city’s edible history and walked us through its most iconic market.  

Founded in 1788, the English Market is far more Irish than its name suggests. Named for its Protestant origins, today it represents a thriving celebration of local fare. Fifty-five bustling stalls offer everything from traditional delicacies like drisheen (blood pudding) and pigs’ trotters to handmade cheeses, fresh seafood, rustic breads, and seasonal produce. The market has weathered fire, civil unrest, and misguided attempts at redevelopment including a 1980s proposal to turn it into a car park. Today, it’s both a heritage site and a living, breathing center of local life. After touring, we tucked into lunch at the Farmgate Café where market ingredients are transformed into simple, beautiful plates.     

Garden Paths and Crystal Glass 

The next day we traveled to Ardmore, County Waterford, along Ireland’s southern coast with its postcard-perfect views of sea and sky. After lunch at Farmgate Lismore, we took an enchanting garden tour of Lismore Castle Gardens (home to the oldest formally cultivated gardens in Ireland), led by head gardener Colm O’Driscoll. Strolling through yew tree avenues, wildflower meadows, and bountiful kitchen gardens, it was impossible not to admire Ireland’s commitment to organic, regenerative growing. 

From there, we visited J Hill’s Standard, a boutique glasswork founded by former Waterford Crystal artisans. Over flutes of sparkling wine, we browsed their elegant pieces. One particularly luminous vase caught my eye—and found its way into my suitcase. 

Dinner that evening was at  Goldie, a Bib Gourmand-awarded restaurant in the heart of Cork. Their menu focuses on fish sourced daily from small, local boats. Every bite captured the taste of the Atlantic. 

From Smokehouses to Sinatra.  

We spent Saturday morning wandering through Midleton Farmers Market where local producers proudly displayed fresh vegetables, preserves, cheeses, and handmade goods. From there, we moved on to Hederman’s Smokehouse, where Frank Hederman offered a passionate, behind-the-scenes tour. A master of his craft, Frank smoked fish with the precision of a violinist and the heart of a poet. 

Lunch—if you could call it just that—was an abundant affair. We began with platters of salmon, eel, and trout, before being surprised with a second course: quiche, asparagus, and vibrant salad, all prepared by Frank’s wife, Carolyn. We were joined by London Dame Jacqui Pickles and her husband, Guy, for the remainder of the journey—welcome company for what was quickly becoming a highlight reel of Ireland’s finest. 

Later that afternoon, we explored Kinsale, a picturesque harbor town known for its charming shops and colorful streets. Our day ended at The Black Pig, where we enjoyed an array of seasonal, small plates paired with carefully selected wines. And yes—some of us even danced the night away back at the hotel, thanks to a live singer belting out Sinatra classics with an Irish twist. 

A Farewell Feast at Ballymaloe  

Our final day was nothing short of magical. We arrived at Ballymaloe Cookery School and Organic Farm, set on 100 acres of lush countryside. There we met culinary legend and founder Dame Darina Allen, whose energy and passion for sustainable farming and climate-conscious living are as inspiring as the grounds themselves. 

Darina led us through greenhouses, orchards, and wildflower fields, sharing insights into Ballymaloe’s mission to educate future chefs and farmers in regenerative food systems. Her dedication to preserving Ireland’s culinary identity through ethical practices left a lasting impression. 

Our farewell dinner at Ballymaloe House was intimate and deeply special. Joined once again by Darina, we were treated to a private meal that celebrated everything we had tasted and learned throughout the week—a poetic end to an unforgettable journey. 

Final Thoughts  

From markets to Michelin plates and smoked fish to sparkling crystal, Edible Cork offered more than a tour. It was a narrative of Ireland told through its food, its people, and its places. Thanks to LDEI’s London Chapter for curating another remarkable adventure. Until next time!  

 Author, Dame Ann Stratte (Washington, D.C. and South Florida

Cork Photo Credits Dame Kirstin Robinette  

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